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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.